Laos has been incredible and a country I hardly knew existed. We wanted to share some history and give reference to why we are here.

Written by my dear college roommate, Connie Boneno Russell:

The Secret War: “As part of US anti-communist operations in southeast Asia – commonly known as the Vietnam war – between 1964 and 1973, American pilots flew 580,000 attack sorties over Laos, an average of one planeload of bombs every eight minutes for almost a decade. By the time the last US bombs fell in April 1973, a total of 2,093,100 tonnes of ordnance had rained down on this neutral country.”  (The Guardian – Bolingbroke-Kent, April 27, 2023).

Laos is the most heavily bombed country per capita in the world. It is estimated that 30% of the over 2 million tonnes of ordnance remain unexploded in Laos.

In the fall of 1979 a refugee from Laos enrolled in our high school. She was very open and friendly and we became fast friends. Together with a couple of other girls, we navigated high school together. The highs-we all made the volleyball team, the lows-we all failed to make the soccer team, the in-between – just hanging out and having fun, we were inseparable. We understood that our friend had lived a life that we would never understand, but we never talked about what that had looked like. We were all very focused on the moment and getting to the next moment. My friend from Laos most of all. After high school we went to separate colleges and our lives began to drift. We would connect occasionally, but time and distance grew.

This fall we reconnected for a reunion weekend and it was just like old times. I was reminded of how special it is to laugh and dance with people you love. Lots of dancing, maybe too much dancing. I now know that her family fled the Laos communist government (LPRP) by swimming across the Mekong into Thailand where they lived in a refugee camp for a period of time before coming to the U.S.

I am not sure that I can answer why it was important to me that I visit Laos. I know my friend did not share my desire. She still carries the wounds of war from her childhood. My heart breaks for all the children around the world who have to pay the price for the shameful behavior of people in power.

We have been greeted with warmth and kindness while in Laos.  It is a beautiful country with beautiful people and I hope that both can find healing.

From Tami:

We arrived in Vang Vieng to the Confetti Garden Hotel. A bit road weary, we grabbed early dinner at the Happy Mango which became our go-to restaurant most of the time. Things are very inexpensive in Laos. Fresh and delicious thai, lao, and vietnamese foods could be had for a few dollars. Our transportation was also incredibly cheap.

Next day Connie and Jeff took off via foot to a blue lagoon and cave hike. I rented a bike and cruised the countryside, stopped at a buddhist temple and just sat. Some needed downtime.

I biked over to a foot massage place and had the most divine hour long foot massage for around $8.

Heights are not Jeff’s favorite, but he was a super good sport and agreed to go up in a balloon with us. We were picked up at 6.30am for the sunrise ride.

My cousin Charlie used to have a bungee jumping Hot Air balloon company. I had helped him years ago and knew how magical hot air balloons are. The folks were very skilled at getting us up and making sure we got our photos. The view was breathtaking.

We even did a little photo shoot for Hempsmith.

Immediately after, we thought it would be a good idea to rent scooters and go about 8 miles out to Blue Lagoon 3 for the day. Never having driven a scooter, I was a little nervous. Jeff used to own a motorcycle. I thought if he could go up in the balloon, surely I could face my fear.

I really wanted the cute scooter.

The shop owner explained in broken English and hand motions how to operate this. I don’t think he had a lot of confidence in me at first.

I practiced for a minute and then Jeff, with Connie on the back, lead the way. The first thing was to get over a rickety bridge that looked like it was built out of bamboo. Then another bridge full of walkers. We hit dirt roads that had potholes big enough to float boats in and finally we got to somewhat better roads. Once we got out of town, driving through limestone mountains, dodging cows and chickens, it was a spiritual experience. Partly terrifying and partly exhilarating. I’m so glad we did it.

We swam, Jeff went into the caves, and back we drove.

Because we had not done enough that day, we went to sunset yoga on a pony farm. There is a fabulous yoga studio in one of the hotels and Connie and I did yoga every day with different teachers. Makes me grateful for Cathy Holt who has given me the foundation of yoga for 25 years.

Yoga is the answer for weary travelers.

Last day in Vang Vieng we watched the balloons and also they have these weird go carts in the sky. Kind of like parasailing but with go-carts. It didn’t seem like a good idea.

Overall, this place is amazing. There is a good bit of pollution, poverty and trash. Infrastructure needs help. It’s a developing country, of course. The people are kind, humble, reserved and very hospitable.

Today we took the high speed train back to Vientiane. China built the railway and it’s NICE! Better than Amtrak! On our one hour ride, a surprise dance troop broke out!

Next stop is Phuket, Thailand!