Tag Archives: Ecuador

Mar20

Galapagos and the Blue Footed Dance + Cotopaxi

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Today we had an incredible tour of Cotopaxi volcano. Cotopaxi means “the neck of the moon” and is a sacred mountain, a place of the gods and sender of rain for the Andean people. It did feel very spiritual being in this ancient place. We were mostly alone with our sweet guide, Wilson. We did run into a group of mountain climbers at lunch, but not many folks around.

We just came from Galapagos. Oh my. One of the most spectacular places on the planet. It was discovered by Charles Darwin in 1835. He was there via the HMS Beagle for only 5 weeks, but it contributed to his theory of evolution by natural selection.

the black iguanas were everywhere

Galapagos is 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador…volcanic islands famous for unique plants and animals found nowhere else in the world. It’s a living laboratory today and is a national park highly protected by the government and conservation organizations. They really do an incredible job of sustainability.

Turtuga Bay

We flew into San Cristobal, saw many, many sea lions, went to the beaches and had a tour of turtle breeding centers. We stopped at a volcanic crater to watch the frigate birds take a shower in the water. Frigate birds are pretty rude-they steal food straight out of the mouths of other birds. But they are cool.

it rains a lot and very suddenly in this part of the world 🤪

We were so lucky that the sky cleared to allow us to witness the lunar eclipse around 2.30am and I set some intentions. We’ll see. Eclipses are powerful.

Took a speed boat which is a whole thing to get from island to island. It’s a bizarre system that the locals have figured out. You stand in line, get a tag, get shuttled to a water taxi and then over to a bigger boat. Don’t forget to pay the $1 to the water taxi! You are potentially getting wet the whole time. Once you get on the main boat, it takes 2-3 hours to get to the next island. Depending on weather, it could be a smooth ride or holy hell. We needed two boats to get back to our island on the last day. It was pouring rain the whole time. The seas were rough. The boat would go over waves and your body would lift up a lot and then be thrown back down on the seat. Jeff, sweet soul, helped a fellow passenger throw up. Others were leaning over the back puking. Connie and I were holding on for dear life. This was a two hour and then second boat was three hours. We were soaked and all our luggage as well. Not the best day of the trip.

Besides that, Galapagos is so worth it. The place is pristine, the people have such pride and prioritize the eco system, animals and plants over the dollar. The oceans are clean compared to Thailand where the pollution is at an all time high and also the tourists.

Ok! Let’s talk about the blue footed boobies! This was my motivation for going to Galapagos and they did not disappoint! The birds are the cutest, in my opinion in the world. The male does a big show and dance for his female prospect. He is showing off his very blue feet. They are blue because of their diet and the carotenoids. The more blue, the healthier the bird and hopefully he will be able to provide for her. Connie, Jeff and I took a boat out with a small group. We got to see these birds hanging out with penguins. The only warm water penguins on earth. It was magical. Then we snorkeled with sea turtles, beautiful circus fish and one shark. Yikes! I’m not the best at snorkeling, but this was amazing. A large turtle popped up directly behind me. Connie got a laugh. Huge highlight.

For my birders at home. Wow. Ecuador is the 4th most diverse place for birds. I saw so many gorgeous birds.

the black lava gull is the most rare gull in the world
the caribbean flamingo across from our hotel
he’s not a bird, but how cute?!

We rode bikes on Isabela Island to the Wall of tears. A preacher in the 1950’s tortured police and army members who made mistakes. These men were shipped to Galapagos. They were forced to build a wall of volcanic rocks. The prisoners were crying in the extreme heat and many died building this wall that was for no reason.

International travel helps me connect the dots about the world, but also about my life. It is so important to learn about other cultures in my opinion. Americans have a lot, a lot to learn how others do things. Our way is obviously not the best on many topics. I’m grateful to have this snapshot of Ecuadorian history and lifestyle. I would say it’s one of my favorite countries to visit.

in the very crowded San Cristobal airport

Travel Tips

When you are in this part of the world, prepare to be wet. And not just a little wet. Soaked to the bone with wet luggage, feet in wet shoes all day that are like pickles at the end of the day. Bring ziplock bags for phones and passports.

The local guides were crucial to our understanding of the culture and environment. We grew very attached to them. They were like living google but way more knowledgeable.

We head home tomorrow to a nation under fire and being destroyed by a rogue government.

A constitutional crisis.

I have business issues and personal challenges.

And I have faith. We can do hard things.

Until next time. Croatia? Who’s in?!

Mar13

A Monkey, a Pit Bull and the Holy Water

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Baños de Agua Santa is located at the foot of the active volcano, Tungurahua. (throat of fire). This is part of the Andes Mountain range which runs through South America. Ecuador is home to 84 volcanoes, 27 active.

The picturesque, mountainous village of Banos has waterfalls and thermal springs filled with healing mineral water. The church uses the water in their ceremonies. Connie, Jeff and I took full advantage of all that healing. It was packed with people and you could see the younger women helping the elders do their stretches in the hot water.

We noticed leprechaun bars, shamrocks and elves throughout this village. No one could tell us why there was such a fairy influence until our driver picked us up to go to Quito. Evidently Bob Dylan had come through in the 60’s and there is of course a lot of plant medicines in these parts. Bob was interested in the psychedelic mushrooms and the san pedro cactus (related to peyote). He must have had a big influence as people started seeing and being with the fairies, elves and leprechauns of Banos. Sometimes the young women would blame the chuzalongo that she may have met on a trail for her impending pregnancy.

We booked an all day expedition into the jungle with Polo, our guide. He picked us up early from our awesome hotel: La Posada del Arte. We went two hours into the Amazon basin stopping at waterfalls and an animal sanctuary, then to eat tilapia at Restaurant Nico.

The best part was this amazing hike to Cascada Hola Vida. A waterfall where the shamans come to do ceremonies for the community. Polo showed us all the bizarre trees and plants and pointed out the healing properties of many. He said during covid, the indigenous people used ginger and sugarcane rum to keep the virus away. And no one got sick in this region.

Next stop was a community that demonstrated native traditions and included us in face painting with the red dye from the achote plant. The children taught us a dance around the fire and we got to hit a target with a blow dart. There was a pretty cute monkey running around and he became interested in the flower in my hair and I did kind of initiate with him. He bit me on the shoulder and he had been eating that red plant so I thought I was bleeding but alas, all was well. I will not come home with monkey pox!

We went canoeing down the Puyo River, saw some cool birds and over to see a cacao farm where we roasted, peeled, and ground cocoa seeds and had the most amazing hot chocolate ever.

raw cacao

A really stellar day.

Next day, we had a little time to kill before our afternoon itinerary. Connie, Jeff and I decided to go for a quick hike up the mountain. It was maybe not very thought out and the incline was straight up. The three of us are in pretty good shape, but damn, I thought I was going to die. We were determined to keep going. Along the way we ran into a young gentleman who was practicing his violin up on the mountain. Very well dressed and not sweating at all like we were. It was pretty magical to have his sounds accompany us as we were winded and grunting up the mountain.

We came to a fork in the path and we took the road less traveled. BIG MISTAKE. Jeff was ahead and all of a sudden he said “DOG” and Connie turned around and walked quickly away. She has a healthy fear of dogs. This was a very ferocious pit bull and a hound behind him. Jeff turned around and walked slowly away as this dog acted like he was going to tear us apart. I talked to him like a child thinking he would not attack a sweet motherly voice. I did picture us in the hospital and it delaying us a lot. Finally, we got some distance. Never been that freaked out by a dog. We got the hell off that mountain and of course passed the oblivious violinist on the way.

A couple more things about this part of the trip…the soil is so fecund and you can see patches of different crops along the hills. The dirt is black. I saw some spraying and our guide said they just use a little pepper spray as pesticide. There is so much food everywhere.

He also told us about the economic crisis of 1999 when there was a bank holiday declared by the government. They froze the citizens deposits and the banks closed. The sucre currency was switched over to the US dollar due to inflation and external debts. Many businesses went under, people lost their jobs and it took many years to recover.

And shoutout to Connie and Jeff for including me on their adventures. We have a good system here. They are fabulous travel mates. Jeff is practical and has major common sense. Connie is the planner and history buff. I just add humor to the situation usually. We are the three amigos. ♥️

Mar9

Middle of the World

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We pulled into the historic district of Quito around midnight. Our hotel was one of the 5 oldest houses in the town and breakfast was served in a dungeon every morning. I learned on Ash Wednesday that my Mother’s partner, George had died. George was a big personality catholic, Italian man and he had told us all that he was ready to go. Still didn’t make it any easier.

It seemed fitting to go to the Basilica del voto Nacional on Ash Wednesday. It was beautiful and the music playing helped my melancholy.

Quito is sitting at 9350 feet in elevation and is the highest capital in the world. Connie, Jeff and I could feel the difference. I felt dizzy for days, not to mention we walked many miles up and down the steep streets.

There is so much history and information about this beautiful city. We are just going to touch on it.

La Compania was recommended by many folks. A baroque style church with maybe the most 23 carat gold leaf on earth. The place was stunning and not understanding religion all that much, it was bizarre seeing all the opulence and so much about sin and the devil. The images of white men saving all the indigenous people and the incredible fear that was used to manipulate.

A highlight was going to the Intinan Solar Museum where we were literally standing on the equator line. 0.0 latitude. The well spoken guide told us there were 3 seasons in Ecuador: dry season, wet season and crazy season. The sunrise is always about the same: 6.20am and sunset around 6.30pm.

She discussed the poles and the way water circulates. Fascinating stop!

Next day we hit the Jardin Botanico de Quito. Vast gardens of everything from orchids, to carnivorous to bonsai to cacti. Really fabulous place. Ecuador is the most biodiverse country in the world and trey seemed to have a little of everything. I kind of want to put in a bonsai garden in our Tree Museum at The Plant! 😅

Getting around Quito is pretty great. They just put in a brand new subway line in 2023. Pristine. Which leads us to politics. I asked Connie to be guest blogger again and this is what she wrote from our short time here, talking to guides and friends here:

“Politics is a loaded word these days. Those of us lucky enough to live in the United States have had a lot to talk about. For many different reasons, the United States finds itself being governed by “business” men. Men who govern by the maxim that might means right. That they must “win” every interaction and consequences be damned. These white business men are fighting an imaginary culture war in which they don’t want to share any of the power. Many voted for this administration.

Ecuador finds itself in a similarly divided situation. There is a runoff presidential election in April. The voters are pretty evenly split between a leftist socialist candidate and a right wing candidate. While the US is fighting a culture war, Ecuadorians are fighting an increasingly dangerous drug war. While drug cartels are fighting for dominance and killing each other, citizens are being caught up in the conflict. There is tension in Quito and some do not feel safe. People spend hours in line at the bank taking out minimum amounts of cash so as not to have too much on them. When darkness comes, the streets empty.

Voting is mandatory for Ecuadorians between 18-65. A lot is on the line this election. The current right wing president has issued a state of war in which the army is deployed to try and curb crime. Many people want to return to the prior socialist government in which there was a lot of prosperity. The leftist socialist government ended when President Delgado fled the country after being charged with kidnapping his opponent.

Governance is a fragile and complicated system. It’s important that we are all engaged and paying attention. Our leaders affect our lives in real ways and I would hope they take this responsibility seriously. People’s lives are at stake.”

Thank you Connie and I can’t wait to talk to Marcela about this.

Another fascinating thing about Quito is they are 95% powered by hydroelectric. What a beautiful clean energy! And here we are in climate change and the droughts come to the rain forest. WTF?! This past fall, they had rolling blackouts of up to 14 hours and are now looking at supplementary electricity which will go back to petroleum.

Their main exports are crude oil, fish and shrimp, then bananas and coffee and cocoa.

Ecuador is majestic, magical and awe inspiring. The people we have met have a strength and also calm gentleness to them.

And the streets smell like eucalyptus!

Next stop Banos de Agua. We’ll report back!