We pulled into the historic district of Quito around midnight. Our hotel was one of the 5 oldest houses in the town and breakfast was served in a dungeon every morning. I learned on Ash Wednesday that my Mother’s partner, George had died. George was a big personality catholic, Italian man and he had told us all that he was ready to go. Still didn’t make it any easier.
It seemed fitting to go to the Basilica del voto Nacional on Ash Wednesday. It was beautiful and the music playing helped my melancholy.

Quito is sitting at 9350 feet in elevation and is the highest capital in the world. Connie, Jeff and I could feel the difference. I felt dizzy for days, not to mention we walked many miles up and down the steep streets.
There is so much history and information about this beautiful city. We are just going to touch on it.

La Compania was recommended by many folks. A baroque style church with maybe the most 23 carat gold leaf on earth. The place was stunning and not understanding religion all that much, it was bizarre seeing all the opulence and so much about sin and the devil. The images of white men saving all the indigenous people and the incredible fear that was used to manipulate.



A highlight was going to the Intinan Solar Museum where we were literally standing on the equator line. 0.0 latitude. The well spoken guide told us there were 3 seasons in Ecuador: dry season, wet season and crazy season. The sunrise is always about the same: 6.20am and sunset around 6.30pm.
She discussed the poles and the way water circulates. Fascinating stop!



Next day we hit the Jardin Botanico de Quito. Vast gardens of everything from orchids, to carnivorous to bonsai to cacti. Really fabulous place. Ecuador is the most biodiverse country in the world and trey seemed to have a little of everything. I kind of want to put in a bonsai garden in our Tree Museum at The Plant! 😅



Getting around Quito is pretty great. They just put in a brand new subway line in 2023. Pristine. Which leads us to politics. I asked Connie to be guest blogger again and this is what she wrote from our short time here, talking to guides and friends here:
“Politics is a loaded word these days. Those of us lucky enough to live in the United States have had a lot to talk about. For many different reasons, the United States finds itself being governed by “business” men. Men who govern by the maxim that might means right. That they must “win” every interaction and consequences be damned. These white business men are fighting an imaginary culture war in which they don’t want to share any of the power. Many voted for this administration.
Ecuador finds itself in a similarly divided situation. There is a runoff presidential election in April. The voters are pretty evenly split between a leftist socialist candidate and a right wing candidate. While the US is fighting a culture war, Ecuadorians are fighting an increasingly dangerous drug war. While drug cartels are fighting for dominance and killing each other, citizens are being caught up in the conflict. There is tension in Quito and some do not feel safe. People spend hours in line at the bank taking out minimum amounts of cash so as not to have too much on them. When darkness comes, the streets empty.

Voting is mandatory for Ecuadorians between 18-65. A lot is on the line this election. The current right wing president has issued a state of war in which the army is deployed to try and curb crime. Many people want to return to the prior socialist government in which there was a lot of prosperity. The leftist socialist government ended when President Delgado fled the country after being charged with kidnapping his opponent.
Governance is a fragile and complicated system. It’s important that we are all engaged and paying attention. Our leaders affect our lives in real ways and I would hope they take this responsibility seriously. People’s lives are at stake.”
Thank you Connie and I can’t wait to talk to Marcela about this.

Another fascinating thing about Quito is they are 95% powered by hydroelectric. What a beautiful clean energy! And here we are in climate change and the droughts come to the rain forest. WTF?! This past fall, they had rolling blackouts of up to 14 hours and are now looking at supplementary electricity which will go back to petroleum.
Their main exports are crude oil, fish and shrimp, then bananas and coffee and cocoa.

Ecuador is majestic, magical and awe inspiring. The people we have met have a strength and also calm gentleness to them.
And the streets smell like eucalyptus!
Next stop Banos de Agua. We’ll report back!


Fabulous reportage!! So sorry about George
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Beautiful photos…what an adventure! So sorry about your Mom’s beloved…hoping sweet memories will help you both right now.
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Tami and Connie,
You have both enriched my stay-at-home life. Keep traveling and writing!
Camille
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I love reading about your adventures, Tamilove! And I LOVE the aardvark gargoyles! XOXO Jana
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