Monthly Archives: February 2024

Resilient Cambodia

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Resilient Cambodia

We flew to the brand new airport in Cambodia built by China. China is putting in massive infrastructure to support their investments in these developing countries. Connie and Jeff had a different hotel than me, so we took 2 different taxis into the hour drive to Siem Reap. We drove down the long chinese built road through the cashew trees on both sides into the town. My driver was adorable and when I asked for music, he gave me his phone to control. The first familiar song was Ed Sheeran’s “Perfect”. We cranked it and he sang it at the top of his lungs! He offered a cooler of beer and we were off to explore another town. The hotel was stunning, the staff incredibly welcoming.


Guest blogger, Connie describes the next part of our trip. She was very good at understanding the sometimes broken english of our sweet guide:


Visiting Siem Reap, Cambodia means visiting Angkor Wat. This temple complex was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu in the 12th century CE by the Khmer King Suryavarman II. It is among the largest religious buildings ever created. Today it is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Unlike most temples, Angkor Wat was built facing the west in deference to Vishnu and one of the most powerful times to view the central towers is at sunrise.

Our guide and the driver arrived to pick us up at 4:30 am to begin our day long tour through the 420 acre Angkor Wat temple complex as well as the ancient city of Angkor Thom.  Our guide led us through the dark from the Angkor Wat parking area to a field facing that temple.  A hush fell over the crowd of visitors from all over the world as we witnessed the sun rising behind the five towers.

Our guide provided us with so much information on the history and symbolism of Angkor Wat as well as Angkor Thom.  However, the most unexpected experience was the information that he shared with us about his life and Cambodia’s tragic history.

In 1975 a communist regime known as the Khmer Rouge conquered the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh. From 1975 to 1979 the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, set in motion a campaign of genocide that claimed the lives of up to two million people. One in four Cambodians were killed during this period.

Our tour guide was born in a small village in Cambodia.  He believes it was in the early 1960’s, but he can’t be completely sure because any record of his birth was destroyed.  His family was displaced from their village by the Khmer Rouge and were forced to work on a collective farm. His father died of starvation and his mother of disease.  Our guide had to bury his father in a shallow grave that he dug by hand when he was only 12 years old.  His little sister was struck down and killed for stopping work in a field to eat a cricket. Following that tragedy, our guide ran away from the farm and lived in the jungle on his own for two years. Then at the age of 16 he became a soldier fighting against the Khmer Rouge.  This man had been through truly horrific experiences in his life, a true mirror of the history of Cambodia.

As we toured the temples he exchanged greetings with many of the other tour guides and security guards.  It was clear that he was a well liked and respected man in that community.

We were completely shocked by our guides candor and openness.  We were so touched that he felt comfortable sharing his personal reminisces with us. He was so kind, generous, and I didn’t mention before, pretty funny. We will never forget those moments that we spent with this man and how he took the time to educate us. How incredibly lucky we are to have the opportunity to travel and meet this most awesome person.

Connie is correct. Our guide was so open and vulnerable and at times we had the biggest lump in our throats trying to understand what he had been through. He was just a little older than us. Imagining the difference of his childhood and my childhood was humbling and hard to imagine. The US just stood by as this was happening. And yet, the man has a beautiful family with grandchildren and he had just won a new IPHONE!

We did run into a band of monkeys near one temple. Our guide had warned us to not have food in our pockets. We witnessed small children getting assaulted by monkeys to get their bags of candy. It was kind of funny, kind of alarming. We walked past a line of scooters and one monkey opened up the compartment on the scooter, grabbed a bottled water and started guzzling.

Siem Reap is a pretty happening town and the infamous Pub Street reminded me a little of what we are going for at The Plant. Very active, lots of lights, tourists and great food.

Our time was coming to an end. The super bowl happened. Connie and Jeff found a bar that was open at 7am to watch the game. I hung by my pool and took advantage of the spa. We packed up our stuff and had to get back to Vietnam to make the long journey home. Jeff who is a great problem solver and mechanical engineer designed the trip so we had an extra day to chill in Vietnam (just in case). Well, I call him MVP of the trip because I got turned away at the airport due to an expired Vietnam visa. They don’t mess around there. I’m not sure what happened, but I was not allowed back into Vietnam. There was some panic on my part and Jeff and Connie stepped in to help. We started working on emergency visas but I had to turn around and go back to Siem Reap while they flew out. I had an extra day in Cambodia until I could sort out the visa situation. My dear cousin called to talk me out of a tree and make me laugh. I had fear I would never get to leave Cambodia and the smoke from the burning of the rice fields was getting to me. But never fear, it all worked out. Was a pretty expensive mistake, but I flew out a day later and an agent met me in Vietnam to make sure I had the correct paperwork stamped.

I jumped in a van with some germans to head into Ha Noi around 9pm (and needed to get back to the airport at 5am next day). The van drove into Ha Noi which was celebrating the last day of Tet (Vietnam New Years). The streets were packed with revelers and the van was driving through massive scooters and people sitting outside eating at these low tables and chairs. I couldn’t believe we didn’t run over anyone. He just pushed through beeping the whole time. We were driving through what felt like a parade on the way to the Golden Silk Hotel. Connie and Jeff were celebrating with Jeff’s vietnamese co-workers and I arrived to a party, lots of beers and cheers and dinner. Never been so happy to see these faces!

Some travel tips I learned about Asia:

Take US dollars that are brand new. Most places would not accept money that had any type of blemish, or tear.

Toilet paper was not abundant. I ended up with a stash in my bag because some places had NONE.

Good shoes and being in pretty good shape is important. We climbed steep stairs with shaky railings a lot.

We are privileged as the US dollar is accepted widely and the common language besides the native one is english.

Water is of course one of the most precious resources and I didn’t take it for granted.

People are so great.

Grateful to be home and on to the next adventure! Staying home!

Thanks for reading! It was life changing.
Until next time, tami

The Kingdom of Thailand

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I found it part divine, and part not so divine. Thailand is around 70 million, 90% buddhist and the second largest economy in southeast Asia.

Cute bar with cold beer which is essential in this heat.

We flew into Phuket and drove about an hour and half to our destination, Kata Beach. The taxi driver let Jeff connect his playlist which we cranked. He has awesome eclectic taste in music. Once checked in, we tried to find the beach. Due to the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and tsunami, there was a massive wall most likely built to save lives in the event of another. My bff, Melissa, lost her dear friend Carol in that tsunami and I remember it well.

The place reminded us of Myrtle Beach. Very crowded, very hot and humid, full of cheap tourist items for sale. Every tourist was wearing the same white hooded shirt with the same elephant pants. It was hard to cross the street, we were tired and kind of not impressed. We found a huge night market and had a very authentic dinner. Thankfully Connie spotted THE BEST coconut ice cream place which we went every night.

We made the best of it. I found a yoga place that seemed nearby. Started walking through the crowded streets and then my map app started having hiking symbols. It was kind of a road that was vertical, not horizontal. I would have been very uncomfortable to be in an automobile on this road. I kept going and found this adorable small hotel with rooftop yoga. The instructor was amazing. The guests couldn’t believe I walked there. Coming down the road was equally challenging. Then I booked a 2 hour thai massage that changed my life. This woman manipulated my body in ways hard to describe. It felt like a workout and I truly think she got about a decade of stress out of me. I thought I might be covered in bruises the next day, but no. It was amazing.

Jeff found a beach to run on and was happy, Connie found the good restaurants to eat in.

Food was fabulous and incredibly inexpensive.

We still had time to kill before our plane to Chiang Mai. We decided to book an excursion to Phi Phi Islands. Should be beautiful. The itinerary was a series of stops including an island that The Beach was filmed. Leonardo DiCaprio made a movie at Maya Bay on the Andaman Sea. We had never heard of the movie before, but evidently thousands of tourists have. It was drop dead gorgeous. However, so many visitors came that it killed the coral reef and seriously damaged the entire place. They closed the beach and recently opened it. The boats of tourists would drop people off for exactly 40 minutes, you were not allowed to go in the water, but you would take your selfie and then back on the boat as quickly as possible. It was depressing. The good news is the locals are making bank from tourism now that covid is not as big a deal. Bad news is the ecology takes a hit (says this super privileged tourist)

Long tail boats (reua hang yao) in Phi Phi

Our guide, Mr. B described the hardship of the pandemic and how he invested in water buffalo to sell milk to get by. He was happy to be back on the boat and touring.

One more day in Phuket and we needed to see Old Town. We jumped on public transportation which cost about $1. It was like a big truck with a roof on it. Lots of people and took about an hour and half to get to old town. It was very hot. Very humid. Very smelly. Very loud. There was an aroma of diesel fumes, sewer, and a touch of the duran fruit. OMG. The duran fruit is fascinating. It’s a delicacy and yet has been described as smelling like sulfur, sewage, honey, rotting onions and stale vomit. YUM

We got to Old Town and it was worth the trip. Lovely boutique stores, amazing architecture and a very cool vibe.

Old Town Phuket had a lot of Art Deco style mixed with Asian.

We had made reservations at a 5 star for our last night and had to jump back on the bus. I can only describe that as hell.

The most beautiful sunset over Kata Beach. We are covered in sweat and grime for our fancy dinner.

Getting to Chiang Mai was very refreshing. Located in northern Thailand, the air was fresh, the heat was dry and there were not so many crowds. Our hotel was adorable. Cheeva Dee! I grabbed one of their bikes and explored the city. It took me to a beautiful old buddhist temple. I really bonded with this place. Sat under the 7 buddhist statues and wrote blessings to Zafer and my Dad. It was really beautiful and peaceful.

Connie did a lot of research on the elephant tours and chose Elephant Nature Park. She chose well, as the founder has won many awards around the world for her work in creating this elephant sanctuary. There is a documentary about her called “Love and Bananas”. Many places still exploit the elephants with touching and riding. This place was more like our Tiger Rescue at home. We did however get up close with these massive animals. At times our guide would look at us nervously and say move away, they are headed towards us! Again, makes me sad that we are taking all the wildlife habitat and creating so many endangered species.

Found another yoga place which was hilarious. Every yoga has been very different. This one was a bit ocd. The instructors hovered over you, but you could tell how much they cared. They even tucked you in with a blanket during shavasana.

I talked Connie into another Thai massage. This one was different. We both felt very sore for the next few days, but we had a blast. For some reason, there was a lot of information about Women’s Correctional Institutions and also places that had these women doing massage services. We didn’t see any info on men. Maybe the men are very well behaved in Chiang Mai? Maybe the women take all the rap? Not sure, but our thai massage outfits felt like correctional institution wear.

The famous soup in this region is called Khao Soi and Connie was dead set on getting the most authentic version. We walked down tiny alleys until we found THE PLACE. They only served one thing. Khao Soi. It was in their garage and it cost $2. It was delicious.

Khao Soi

The Flower Festival was stunning in Chiang Mai and I had to text Emily Fuller, our local flower queen. PBO should have a flower festival..,or The Plant to be specific! Connie’s family runs a plant shop in Winston Salem, House of Plants. We were all in awe of this huge park full of flowers.

Sadly, our time in Chiang Mai was over. I highly suggest this place. We just scratched the surface. Ancient history, fabulous food and the kindest gentlest people.

On to Cambodia. But we’ll save those stories for next blog. Some are hard to hear.

The three Amigos.

The Secret War featuring guest blogger, Connie.

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Laos has been incredible and a country I hardly knew existed. We wanted to share some history and give reference to why we are here.

Connie on the rooftop in Vang Vieng

Written by my dear college roommate, Connie Boneno Russell:

The Secret War: “As part of US anti-communist operations in southeast Asia – commonly known as the Vietnam war – between 1964 and 1973, American pilots flew 580,000 attack sorties over Laos, an average of one planeload of bombs every eight minutes for almost a decade. By the time the last US bombs fell in April 1973, a total of 2,093,100 tonnes of ordnance had rained down on this neutral country.”  (The Guardian – Bolingbroke-Kent, April 27, 2023).

Laos is the most heavily bombed country per capita in the world. It is estimated that 30% of the over 2 million tonnes of ordnance remain unexploded in Laos.

at a Vendor stall in Vang Vieng where Connie bought a bracelet

In the fall of 1979 a refugee from Laos enrolled in our high school. She was very open and friendly and we became fast friends. Together with a couple of other girls, we navigated high school together. The highs-we all made the volleyball team, the lows-we all failed to make the soccer team, the in-between – just hanging out and having fun, we were inseparable. We understood that our friend had lived a life that we would never understand, but we never talked about what that had looked like. We were all very focused on the moment and getting to the next moment. My friend from Laos most of all. After high school we went to separate colleges and our lives began to drift. We would connect occasionally, but time and distance grew.

This fall we reconnected for a reunion weekend and it was just like old times. I was reminded of how special it is to laugh and dance with people you love. Lots of dancing, maybe too much dancing. I now know that her family fled the Laos communist government (LPRP) by swimming across the Mekong into Thailand where they lived in a refugee camp for a period of time before coming to the U.S.

I am not sure that I can answer why it was important to me that I visit Laos. I know my friend did not share my desire. She still carries the wounds of war from her childhood. My heart breaks for all the children around the world who have to pay the price for the shameful behavior of people in power.

We have been greeted with warmth and kindness while in Laos.  It is a beautiful country with beautiful people and I hope that both can find healing.

Hot air balloons are big in Vang Vieng

From Tami:

We arrived in Vang Vieng to the Confetti Garden Hotel. A bit road weary, we grabbed early dinner at the Happy Mango which became our go-to restaurant most of the time. Things are very inexpensive in Laos. Fresh and delicious thai, lao, and vietnamese foods could be had for a few dollars. Our transportation was also incredibly cheap.

I’m already missing The Happy Mango

Next day Connie and Jeff took off via foot to a blue lagoon and cave hike. I rented a bike and cruised the countryside, stopped at a buddhist temple and just sat. Some needed downtime.

I biked over to a foot massage place and had the most divine hour long foot massage for around $8.

Heights are not Jeff’s favorite, but he was a super good sport and agreed to go up in a balloon with us. We were picked up at 6.30am for the sunrise ride.

not anxious at all…

My cousin Charlie used to have a bungee jumping Hot Air balloon company. I had helped him years ago and knew how magical hot air balloons are. The folks were very skilled at getting us up and making sure we got our photos. The view was breathtaking.

We even did a little photo shoot for Hempsmith.

targeting those hot air balloon women…

Immediately after, we thought it would be a good idea to rent scooters and go about 8 miles out to Blue Lagoon 3 for the day. Never having driven a scooter, I was a little nervous. Jeff used to own a motorcycle. I thought if he could go up in the balloon, surely I could face my fear.

I really wanted the cute scooter.

very powerful and electric!

The shop owner explained in broken English and hand motions how to operate this. I don’t think he had a lot of confidence in me at first.

I practiced for a minute and then Jeff, with Connie on the back, lead the way. The first thing was to get over a rickety bridge that looked like it was built out of bamboo. Then another bridge full of walkers. We hit dirt roads that had potholes big enough to float boats in and finally we got to somewhat better roads. Once we got out of town, driving through limestone mountains, dodging cows and chickens, it was a spiritual experience. Partly terrifying and partly exhilarating. I’m so glad we did it.

Blue Lagoon 3

We swam, Jeff went into the caves, and back we drove.

Because we had not done enough that day, we went to sunset yoga on a pony farm. There is a fabulous yoga studio in one of the hotels and Connie and I did yoga every day with different teachers. Makes me grateful for Cathy Holt who has given me the foundation of yoga for 25 years.

Yoga is the answer for weary travelers.

Last day in Vang Vieng we watched the balloons and also they have these weird go carts in the sky. Kind of like parasailing but with go-carts. It didn’t seem like a good idea.

BeerLao and Mojito time

Overall, this place is amazing. There is a good bit of pollution, poverty and trash. Infrastructure needs help. It’s a developing country, of course. The people are kind, humble, reserved and very hospitable.

Today we took the high speed train back to Vientiane. China built the railway and it’s NICE! Better than Amtrak! On our one hour ride, a surprise dance troop broke out!

Next stop is Phuket, Thailand!